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Writer's pictureNigel Perrin

Els Metges, the restaurant at the end of the universe

Hola everyone, I know it's been a while since I posted anything, but since the covid years, I've become rather lethargic and so it was as much as a surprise to me as anyone that I agreed to spend the day with a friend and walk from our house (the Om) to Els Metges, a hidden gem of a restaurant right in the middle of the Gavarres National Park.


Delicious snails cooked over an fire in a rich and spicy tomato sauce served with Aioli
Cargols (in Catalan)

Two days later I am still suffering. "It's only 9km to the weather radar at Puig d'Arques", we said, "just a little bit further to the restaurant", we said. All-in-all, 30km under the belt although being very hot and in need of much refreshment, we may have zig-zagged a little bit on the way home. Luckily, no cars involved and shady country forest tracks all the way.


Ice cold beer at Els Metges in the heart of the Gavarres Massif
You have no idea how well this went down on arrival.

Els Metges is a diamond in the rough. A country Masia (Old Catalan farmhouse) and a church make up the entire village of Sant Cebrià de Lledó with outstanding views towards La Bisbal, Toroella de Montgris and las Illas de Medes - Spains biggest maritime national park and a paradise for snorkellers and divers. Sorry anglers.... no fishing allowed.


Bread, garlic, tomato and olive oil.... a simple yet delicious side plate.
Pa Amb Tomaquet

At Els Metges, translates from the Catalan to "The Doctors", they grow and raise all of their own food and, for me at least, there was nothing on the menu that I wasn't tempted to try. Well, maybe the Catalan beans.... not a great fan of those, but even they were lovely. I had no choice, they came with the roast lamb and chips.


The snails are delicious ! Cooked over an open fire in a rich and fairly spicy tomato sauce. and paired with home-made Alioli made best of starters. They also had (at prior notice) roast goat, escalivada (roasted peppers, onions and aubergeines) and lamb cooked a la brassa (on BBQ coals). The home made wine went down a little too well and Mel y Mato (Honey with a kind of cottage cheese) was the dessert.


A shady terrace with outstanding views
The tree in front of Els Metges at 800 years old

Come for breakfast and enjoy a "sausage tree". A huge selection of cured meats, fuets and embotits with coffee and toast with garlic, a special juicy rubbing tomato and olive oil and you're set up for the day.


Excellent views from the Gavarres massif
Outstanding views towards La Bisbal

The location for Els Metges can be found here


Although, it's not difficult to find, it is right in the middle of the Gavarres Massif, a 38,000 Ha national park that stretches from the Costa Brava coastline all the way to Girona and being a protected natural space, there are few roads. You either have to hike in and out (no taxis) or for a normal car and no hiking, the best forest track comes in from Cassa de la Selva. If you can manage a 6km there and 6km back hike along a forest track, then make your way via asphalted road from Romanya de la Selva to Puig d'Arques, the weather radome at the top of the Gavarres range. Directions can be found here


Whatever you level of fitness, (but I really do recomend the hike in from Calonge), the staff and food at Els Metges are lovely. https://guiacat.cat/restaurant/restaurant-els-metges-cassa-de-la-selva


Average price per person is about €25-30.






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